My car was leaking water because of a leaking water pump. Yesterday I had it replaced with a new water pump and a new thermostat. It ran well afterwards. But since disassembly caused some transmission fluid to leak; I took a drive to the parts store afterwards to pick some up. On my way back to the house from the parts store, less than 录 mile, it got really hot, and quickly got to the limit. Since I had only 2 blocks left I drove it to the house and then shut it off.
I called the mechanic to come back, we started it a few times, the temp was normal at first. But after letting it run for a while, or revving the engine a little bit; it got hot again. Each time, about 3 times, when the indicator was 戮 way up on the gauge, we shut it off.
We let it cool for the next 5 hours, and the mechanic came back to investigate the situation. The car would not start. And based how the water was churning with the radiator cap off, he concluded that the head gaskets needed to be replaced.
I would appreciate if someone can tell me what happened and why this parts replacement did not go off without a hitch.
Right now I am looking at replacing the head gaskets, $54.99 X 2, or replacing all of seals, known as a headset for $283.00.
I am fortunate that he is only charging me a minimal amount for the labor.
What caused the head gaskets to become damaged? Was it the heat or that with the new pump and thermostat there was better water flow and therefore more pressure?
The following links might tell some of the story. I can not tell who is best informed.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en%26amp;q=subaru+outback+overheats+after+changing+water+pump+and+thermostat%26amp;btnG=Google+Search%26amp;aq=f%26amp;oq=
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=6b7bd15c88b83d482202580d70ca4dcf%26amp;postid=158875#post158875
http://answers.edmunds.com/question-98-Subaru-Outback-overheating-Water-radiator-cool-hot-engine-Thermostat-replaced-fans-working-38030.aspx
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081130050024AA0jNKD
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t645025-1997_subaru_outback_legacy_overheating
(the car had only overheated slightly sometimes while the old water pump was in the car and leaking)Why didn't replacing the water pump and thermostat on my 1996 Subaru Outback solve the problem?96-99 2.5 Subaru engines have a HUGE head gasket fail rate, I've seen so many fail to count. Subaru temp gages do not move once the car is warm, if they do, something is wrong. If it overheated slightly before, they were already leaking. You put the water pump in, didn't get all the air out of the system, overheated it, and blew them the rest of the way out. IMHO, you need to have the heads machined, and use only genuine Subaru gaskets. At that age, I'd replace all the seals, timing belt, etc.. Also, since the thermostat is on the bottom of the engine, no water is allowed into the engine until its warmed up, so you have to fill the block with coolant (like thru the upper hose) as well as the radiator before you start up, then add more coolant as it starts to circulate.Why didn't replacing the water pump and thermostat on my 1996 Subaru Outback solve the problem?I would suggest you dump that %26quot;mekanik%26quot; before he gets all your money. You need a RADIATOR SHOP to solve your problem.Don't try flushing the radiator it will not help.
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
How can I troubleshoot a Prizm water pump?
I just picked up a 1993 GEO Prizm that overheats. I changed the thermostat with no success. The water pump is not making any noises or leaking, but I suspect that could be the problem. I don't detect any water in the engine oil, so I don't suspect head problems. The top hose to the radiator gets extremely hot, but the bottom hose is cool. In this weird car, the thermostat is connected to the bottom radiator hose at the engine, which is the opposite of what I am used to. How can I figure out if the pump is actually pumping properly?
Another issue, which I don't think is the overheating cause, is the heater core has a leak in it. I put a can of stop-leak in the system to plug that up, but I am not sure yet if it is still leaking or not. Even when the car engine is really hot, no heat comes out of the passenger compartment heater anyway. Both problems existed before the stop-leak was added. I am thinking the passenger compartment heat problem is either a clogged heater core or a non-functioning valve that connects to the heater control cable. Any thoughts on this issue also? I was thinking I should just bypass the heater core by connecting the hoses where they go to and from the heater core at the firewall until I figure out the overheating problem.
Your input is appreciated.How can I troubleshoot a Prizm water pump?As for the water heater, disconnect the heater hoses, make sure the coolant system is full and start the car. If coolant flies out of one of the hoses, the water pump is fine. While the hoses are disconnected, run a garden hose through the heater core and see if there is good flow. If not, the stop leak or something else has plugged up the core. This might be the same problem with the radiator which will cause overheating.tvs comforter insert
Another issue, which I don't think is the overheating cause, is the heater core has a leak in it. I put a can of stop-leak in the system to plug that up, but I am not sure yet if it is still leaking or not. Even when the car engine is really hot, no heat comes out of the passenger compartment heater anyway. Both problems existed before the stop-leak was added. I am thinking the passenger compartment heat problem is either a clogged heater core or a non-functioning valve that connects to the heater control cable. Any thoughts on this issue also? I was thinking I should just bypass the heater core by connecting the hoses where they go to and from the heater core at the firewall until I figure out the overheating problem.
Your input is appreciated.How can I troubleshoot a Prizm water pump?As for the water heater, disconnect the heater hoses, make sure the coolant system is full and start the car. If coolant flies out of one of the hoses, the water pump is fine. While the hoses are disconnected, run a garden hose through the heater core and see if there is good flow. If not, the stop leak or something else has plugged up the core. This might be the same problem with the radiator which will cause overheating.
How can I tell if my transmission has a computer(electrical) or mechanical Problem.?
So My car was having some overheating problems, and I knew that it was the thermostat. So I was going to change my thermostat and flush my cooling system because my car was overheating. And I was going to lift my car by driving it up a ramp, the ones you place in front of your wheels. And half way up the ramp I hear a pop, there was no grind at all, just one pop, not too loud but something popped. My car, 1995 Nissan Maxima automatic, now stays in neutral whether I put it on drive or reverse. Theres not grind at all, but its like it stays in neutral. And also while I was driving my car up the ramp, the car was overheating. Cause I had to get the parts from autozone, and was a bit over on the way back. I heard that the overheating could of caused the system to disengage the transmission. I have drained the oil and took out the transmission cover in the bottom. I checked the shifter cable, and the connection inside, and it seems to be moving normally. So how can I check if its an electrical problem?How can I tell if my transmission has a computer(electrical) or mechanical Problem.?99% probability you've broken something in the trans. Overheating the engine is highly unlikely to cause a trans problem. Driving to and from AutoZone is light duty to the transmission, so the trans oil would likely be between 200 and 300 degrees fahrenheit and quite happy there, even though the engine isn't. If you were pulling a heavy trailer out of Death Valley in August, that would be another story.
The pop implies something broke--a spline, a housing, a shaft, or something along those lines.
I believe Nissan uses Jatco automatics, not a Hydra-Matic, but generally pretty reliable. You might look to see if there's a typical high-mileage failure of the transmission model installed in your car.How can I tell if my transmission has a computer(electrical) or mechanical Problem.?mechanical problem not computer for the transmission only thing in the trans with wires are for neutral safety switch and a lock up solenoid for the torque converter when you over heat the trans you burn the frictions in the trans more than likely you have broken a planetary gear which is common for these transmissions
The pop implies something broke--a spline, a housing, a shaft, or something along those lines.
I believe Nissan uses Jatco automatics, not a Hydra-Matic, but generally pretty reliable. You might look to see if there's a typical high-mileage failure of the transmission model installed in your car.How can I tell if my transmission has a computer(electrical) or mechanical Problem.?mechanical problem not computer for the transmission only thing in the trans with wires are for neutral safety switch and a lock up solenoid for the torque converter when you over heat the trans you burn the frictions in the trans more than likely you have broken a planetary gear which is common for these transmissions
How much is this car worth?
Its a 2002 Monte Carlo..it has 140,000 miles on it its a V6, 2 dr, its Maroon, new thermostat just put in, cd player, power lock/seats, A/c is perfect. Good gas mileage Tires are 2yrs old. Gets oil changes done at JP Chevrolet.
My friend is sell it to me for 5,000.
Do u guys think its too much..let me know what u think. plzHow much is this car worth?way over blue book value.....he's wanting more than it's worth...offer him 2500....3000 tops. If he won't sell to you, watch the horrible luck he will have not getting it sold out in town, until he lowers the price.
My friend is sell it to me for 5,000.
Do u guys think its too much..let me know what u think. plzHow much is this car worth?way over blue book value.....he's wanting more than it's worth...offer him 2500....3000 tops. If he won't sell to you, watch the horrible luck he will have not getting it sold out in town, until he lowers the price.
Help! Why does my car goes dead when its temperature rised?
Recently, my car have some overheating problem...
The water always spill out from the radiator cap each after 10 minutes run.
After the car heats up at 90 centigrade, it get stall.
No matter how hard I try, the car wont start... Unless, if the car cooled down to 80 centigrade...
I changed my clogged radiator, broken thermostat, defective water pump, gaskets and so on... The water didn't spill out again...
Now, my car run at below 85 centigrade... Which is better than before... I also added some coolant in it...
The engine runs so much smoother than before...
Now, here's the problem...
When the car is cold, it will rev up easily, powerful, quiet, easily ignite, and so forth... No problem is found... Just likes normal car...
But, when its reach 80 centigrade, the car runs weakly, easily stall, noisy, hard to crank, barely run and etc...
When the engine is heats up, its always stall each time I release the foot pedal, climbing small hills, turn the steering, turn on the air-cond, shifting to %26quot;D%26quot; gear and much more...
The car runs smoothly, no misfire is detected...
But, whole bunch of mechanics says it's the ignition system. So, I tried replace a new set of spark plugs and new set ignition coils.
Still no luck...
Then, I found out my Catalytic Converter clogged. I replaced it, and it runs better. Yet, the problem is still not solved...
Can someone help me?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
(Sorry for the long questions and my bad English... Lol!!)Help! Why does my car goes dead when its temperature rised?Without knowing what brand car you have, you have two temperature sensors. One goes to your temperature gauge and the other to your power module. When you first start your car your computer module goes into a default, meaning, that all inputs (temperature, vacuum, etc) are preset by the computer. When your engine reaches a certain temperature, it signals the computer to get off default and start monitoring all inputs. You might want to check out if this sensor is not malfunctioning. It should be easy to locate it as most are installed around the front of the engine block in the vicinity of the water pump thermostat housing.Help! Why does my car goes dead when its temperature rised?Hope that took care of the problem.
The water always spill out from the radiator cap each after 10 minutes run.
After the car heats up at 90 centigrade, it get stall.
No matter how hard I try, the car wont start... Unless, if the car cooled down to 80 centigrade...
I changed my clogged radiator, broken thermostat, defective water pump, gaskets and so on... The water didn't spill out again...
Now, my car run at below 85 centigrade... Which is better than before... I also added some coolant in it...
The engine runs so much smoother than before...
Now, here's the problem...
When the car is cold, it will rev up easily, powerful, quiet, easily ignite, and so forth... No problem is found... Just likes normal car...
But, when its reach 80 centigrade, the car runs weakly, easily stall, noisy, hard to crank, barely run and etc...
When the engine is heats up, its always stall each time I release the foot pedal, climbing small hills, turn the steering, turn on the air-cond, shifting to %26quot;D%26quot; gear and much more...
The car runs smoothly, no misfire is detected...
But, whole bunch of mechanics says it's the ignition system. So, I tried replace a new set of spark plugs and new set ignition coils.
Still no luck...
Then, I found out my Catalytic Converter clogged. I replaced it, and it runs better. Yet, the problem is still not solved...
Can someone help me?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
(Sorry for the long questions and my bad English... Lol!!)Help! Why does my car goes dead when its temperature rised?Without knowing what brand car you have, you have two temperature sensors. One goes to your temperature gauge and the other to your power module. When you first start your car your computer module goes into a default, meaning, that all inputs (temperature, vacuum, etc) are preset by the computer. When your engine reaches a certain temperature, it signals the computer to get off default and start monitoring all inputs. You might want to check out if this sensor is not malfunctioning. It should be easy to locate it as most are installed around the front of the engine block in the vicinity of the water pump thermostat housing.Help! Why does my car goes dead when its temperature rised?Hope that took care of the problem.
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What's wrong with my '90 Olds Cutlass?
I can't figure out what's wrong with it. We've flushed the engine block, changed the radiator which was in bad shape, changed the radiator hose, changed the thermostat, changed the water pump. When the car runs about 5 miles, it starts shaking and jerking pretty bad and then stalls out. It starts back up and idles fine then but when you go to throw it into any gear it shuts back down again. I thought it might be the transmission but I'm not sure? It's a 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera with a 4 cylinder engine.70,000 original miles on it and was sitting outside for a while before I bought it. Anyone know what this could be and how I could fix it?What's wrong with my '90 Olds Cutlass?You may have a fuel delivery problem. Change the fuel filter. You didn't say if it was overheating.What's wrong with my '90 Olds Cutlass?Could be hundreds of things, none of which can be properly diagnosed over the internet for free. I would take it to a reputable shop and pay the one hours diag fee so a professional can run numerous tests and isolate the problem(s). Otherwise you will just be switching parts out hoping for an inexpensive fix and not accomplishing anything. Could be anything from a clogged filter, low fuel pressure, bad transmission, tune up, numerous sensors, low compression, bad engine,catalytic converter, loss of ignition, bad computer, electrical problem etc....
Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed & changed oil, flushed & changed coolant.. now what?
About three days ago on my husband's way home from base; his car (01 Ford Escort) began to overheat. It completely overheated, stalled and died on the freeway; he added water and limped home. His heater cut out and no longer blows hot air, we assumed this was due to the radiator issue.
We checked the oil %26amp; the coolant and found that both were very low -- the reservoir was empty for the coolant and our oil was almost 3 quarts low. We did an oil flush and change, replaced the filter, and also did a coolant flush and change, as well as replaced the thermostat (yes, it was installed correctly %26amp; it was the proper temp).
We test drove it tonight; the heater is still blowing cold air and although it isn't overheating, it is running right at 'hot'.
I did some reading and found out we should have bled the lines and that it may have an air bubble (we're bleeding them in the morning, soon as we can see). Husband also told me after the fact that he added coolant to the radiator (filled it) but not the reservoir; but I don't think that would matter (throwing that out there, might be wrong on that).
I also read that it may be a plugged heater core or possibly a fried water pump. I don't know how to find out of a water pump is dead; and we plan on flushing the heater core tomorrow.
I'd like to avoid taking it to a mechanic if at *all* possible. I'm beginning to think it's unavoidable though.
Thanks in advance...Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?Check that your radiator fan is working: start your car, turn on A/C. Fan should turn on immediately when you turn the A/C on, even with the engine cold. If the fan doesn't turn on, check fuses. If fuses are good, check fan connections. If connections good, you may need a new fan.
If the fan works, you probably have a blockage. Reverse flush coolant to see if it is an easy clear, but you may need to replace the radiator, because a blockage is indicative of a lot of scale, corrosion, or buildup of some kind. When reverse flushing, take cap off, flush through radiator connection at bottom and watch what comes out cap opening. A lot of flakes or solids means a lot still in there to block up again. You can flush with harsher chemicals, but in the long run a new radiator might be better. Note for future: change coolant according to manufacturer recommendation -- this helps remove scale and prevent corrosion, and thus prevent blockages.
Lastly, the pump. If nothing else works, it is probably the pump. Check your fanbelts. If they are the problem, you can probably fix. If not, then unless you are an accomplished backyard mechanic, replacing the water pump is better left to a mechanic.Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?I don't believe u need to flush the heater core ,if u flushed the radiator, it' the same water that's in the both of them.The heater hoe ma be hooked up wrong, if the water pump is bad it should be leaking coolant out of the bottom of it.Mot likel a air pocket in the system,u should see a bleeder valve on or near the water pump.Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?From my experience it would be a blocked radiator.
In the first place it over heated on the freeway%26gt;%26gt; symptom of blocked radiator.
If it got so got that it stopped you probably have done major damage. More than likely at least a blown head gasket. Possibly a warped head. This is possibly a major job.
Seek helpCar is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?Hello, I had a 97' Escort and I work on cars. The Escort had origional problems I've not seen elsewhere. For one, the temperature sensor malfunctioned. But what was interesting was the impeller on the water pump was completely eaten away by rust when I got it. Their water pumps aren't that hefty. So you could easily have a bad water pump.
Before you replace that though, check to see if it runs rough or blows smoke and/or steam from the tailpipe. If there is, it could have a blown head gasket.
If you decide to replace the water pump, replace the thermostat and check for blockage in your heater core by pouring water down a disconnected hose. The only other thing that can block it is the flow control valve that basically controls water flow to your heater core. They tend to go bad since they are mostly plastic.Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?make sure first the over flow tank is filled, with the radiator cap off start the car and rev the engine using the throttle cable under the hood and you will see if coolant is circulating as when u rev it the level should fall when warm and want to flow over when you are not reving the engine after a bit.
there is the top radiator hose, when the car is at operating temp this hose should be warm indicating that the thermostat is opening.
if it is not over heating yet no hot air it is likely a blocked heater core, if you can get an adaptor for the heater hose, there is an inlet to the core and an outlet hook up the water hose with the adaptor and try to push water on both sides.
there is a hose connection called a mustard top, so called for the small opening to build higher water pressure that may work in place of an adaptor.
i would drain the radiator and remove the top and bottom hose at one side, it is fine to reuse the freshly filled radiator juice so collect it in a pan.
the heater core hoses go in to the heater core and likely in and out thru the fire wall, spray the pressurized water thru both hoses and sometimes after a while you will get chunks and more water coming out, i did one car and spent close to ten minutes then it all opened up.Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?Have you changed the cap because that will make it over heat also.It has a spring in it just like the thermostat and it will weaken too.law students with cases dvr
We checked the oil %26amp; the coolant and found that both were very low -- the reservoir was empty for the coolant and our oil was almost 3 quarts low. We did an oil flush and change, replaced the filter, and also did a coolant flush and change, as well as replaced the thermostat (yes, it was installed correctly %26amp; it was the proper temp).
We test drove it tonight; the heater is still blowing cold air and although it isn't overheating, it is running right at 'hot'.
I did some reading and found out we should have bled the lines and that it may have an air bubble (we're bleeding them in the morning, soon as we can see). Husband also told me after the fact that he added coolant to the radiator (filled it) but not the reservoir; but I don't think that would matter (throwing that out there, might be wrong on that).
I also read that it may be a plugged heater core or possibly a fried water pump. I don't know how to find out of a water pump is dead; and we plan on flushing the heater core tomorrow.
I'd like to avoid taking it to a mechanic if at *all* possible. I'm beginning to think it's unavoidable though.
Thanks in advance...Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?Check that your radiator fan is working: start your car, turn on A/C. Fan should turn on immediately when you turn the A/C on, even with the engine cold. If the fan doesn't turn on, check fuses. If fuses are good, check fan connections. If connections good, you may need a new fan.
If the fan works, you probably have a blockage. Reverse flush coolant to see if it is an easy clear, but you may need to replace the radiator, because a blockage is indicative of a lot of scale, corrosion, or buildup of some kind. When reverse flushing, take cap off, flush through radiator connection at bottom and watch what comes out cap opening. A lot of flakes or solids means a lot still in there to block up again. You can flush with harsher chemicals, but in the long run a new radiator might be better. Note for future: change coolant according to manufacturer recommendation -- this helps remove scale and prevent corrosion, and thus prevent blockages.
Lastly, the pump. If nothing else works, it is probably the pump. Check your fanbelts. If they are the problem, you can probably fix. If not, then unless you are an accomplished backyard mechanic, replacing the water pump is better left to a mechanic.Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?I don't believe u need to flush the heater core ,if u flushed the radiator, it' the same water that's in the both of them.The heater hoe ma be hooked up wrong, if the water pump is bad it should be leaking coolant out of the bottom of it.Mot likel a air pocket in the system,u should see a bleeder valve on or near the water pump.Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?From my experience it would be a blocked radiator.
In the first place it over heated on the freeway%26gt;%26gt; symptom of blocked radiator.
If it got so got that it stopped you probably have done major damage. More than likely at least a blown head gasket. Possibly a warped head. This is possibly a major job.
Seek helpCar is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?Hello, I had a 97' Escort and I work on cars. The Escort had origional problems I've not seen elsewhere. For one, the temperature sensor malfunctioned. But what was interesting was the impeller on the water pump was completely eaten away by rust when I got it. Their water pumps aren't that hefty. So you could easily have a bad water pump.
Before you replace that though, check to see if it runs rough or blows smoke and/or steam from the tailpipe. If there is, it could have a blown head gasket.
If you decide to replace the water pump, replace the thermostat and check for blockage in your heater core by pouring water down a disconnected hose. The only other thing that can block it is the flow control valve that basically controls water flow to your heater core. They tend to go bad since they are mostly plastic.Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?make sure first the over flow tank is filled, with the radiator cap off start the car and rev the engine using the throttle cable under the hood and you will see if coolant is circulating as when u rev it the level should fall when warm and want to flow over when you are not reving the engine after a bit.
there is the top radiator hose, when the car is at operating temp this hose should be warm indicating that the thermostat is opening.
if it is not over heating yet no hot air it is likely a blocked heater core, if you can get an adaptor for the heater hose, there is an inlet to the core and an outlet hook up the water hose with the adaptor and try to push water on both sides.
there is a hose connection called a mustard top, so called for the small opening to build higher water pressure that may work in place of an adaptor.
i would drain the radiator and remove the top and bottom hose at one side, it is fine to reuse the freshly filled radiator juice so collect it in a pan.
the heater core hoses go in to the heater core and likely in and out thru the fire wall, spray the pressurized water thru both hoses and sometimes after a while you will get chunks and more water coming out, i did one car and spent close to ten minutes then it all opened up.Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?Have you changed the cap because that will make it over heat also.It has a spring in it just like the thermostat and it will weaken too.
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