I changed plugs - twice, because I assumed my horrible mileage came from plugs and wires. I have fixed a faulty thermostat (nice to have heat in the car again). When I originally changed the plugs, I also had someone replace by rotors and pads. I have since seen %26quot;brakes dragging%26quot;as a possibility on other similar situations. What is that, and would i notice the brakes dragging?
I am trying to figure out how my 99 grand prix went from 21 mpg to 17-19 mpg overnight.Brakes dragging? what is it - how drastically can it affect mileage? Would I feel it?%26quot;brakes dragging%26quot; means the brake pads don't pull away completely when you release the brake pedal
to check you jack up each side of the car and spin the wheels, notice how hard it is and how long they take to stop. a very slight scraping on disk brakes is normal.Brakes dragging? what is it - how drastically can it affect mileage? Would I feel it?go for a drive and when you get back feel if the wheel is abnormally hot, if they are(or one of them is) it needs to be readjusted. anything creating drag is going to reduce your fuel economy..Brakes dragging? what is it - how drastically can it affect mileage? Would I feel it?It's hard to say but you would have noticed if your brakes are dragging the rotors and brake pads would be very hot and you would feel that around the wheels. Did you use the right spark plug, what about the right gap if you used plugs that were not already pre-gaped.
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
Problem with 88 Cadillac Fleetwood 4.5L?
I've got a Cadillac Fleetwood commercial chassis with the FWD 4.5L. Last time I drove it all was fine, but the other owner had it for a couple of months and replaced the radiator hose due to a small leak where the hose had rubbed through.
Now that I've got it back, the temp light comes on after very short trips of 10 miles or less. It was low on coolant when I got it and put 1.5 gallons in it to fill it up initially. I checked the next day, it was again low, and that time I put over 2 gallons in it, started the car, checked it again - and again no coolant to be seen in the radiator. When running at idle, it blows tons of white smoke out the tailpipe.
I've checked the oil, it's not overfull nor does it appear to be mixed with coolant. My initial thought was the head gasket since I'd been told one one Cadillac engine there was a special procedure for a thermostat change otherwise the gasket could blow. But, as I said it's losing over 2 gallons in less than a minute of running at idle. Also, when the temp light came on I tried to turn the heat all the way up to dissipate some of the heat, but I got nothing out of the vents (probably because there was no coolant to circulate).
Does anyone have any ideas here? I'm wanting to sell the car, and have a buyer waiting - but obviously I can't sell it if the engine is having a major issue. As I said, I haven't had the car in a couple of months so I have no idea how it was treated in that time frame, or what if anything was done to it. Also, the fan temp light occasionally kicks on as well.Problem with 88 Cadillac Fleetwood 4.5L?Before replacing the head gaskets be sure to check the intake manifold gaskets. That engine is notorious for bad intake gaskets that give all the symptoms of head gasket failure. Also if it does happen to be the head gaskets that are bad be careful when removing the head bolts because they have a tendency to pull the aluminum block threads out when removing them. You should have a shop perform a cooling system pressure test and a cylinder leak down / compression test to determine what it is that's causing the problem because the more you drive it while overheating the more damage and money your costing yourself. Good luck and hope this helps.Problem with 88 Cadillac Fleetwood 4.5L?22 years old and blowing 2 gallons per min out the tail pipe? You have a blown head gasket , big time. or you have a large 7 cyl water pump. 2 gallons is almost a full system. Pull the plugs. That should indicate which bank needs a gasket, Just better off to do both sides.Problem with 88 Cadillac Fleetwood 4.5L?yeah i think its your head gasket if the smoke on the tail pipe smells like anifreze its your headgasket
Now that I've got it back, the temp light comes on after very short trips of 10 miles or less. It was low on coolant when I got it and put 1.5 gallons in it to fill it up initially. I checked the next day, it was again low, and that time I put over 2 gallons in it, started the car, checked it again - and again no coolant to be seen in the radiator. When running at idle, it blows tons of white smoke out the tailpipe.
I've checked the oil, it's not overfull nor does it appear to be mixed with coolant. My initial thought was the head gasket since I'd been told one one Cadillac engine there was a special procedure for a thermostat change otherwise the gasket could blow. But, as I said it's losing over 2 gallons in less than a minute of running at idle. Also, when the temp light came on I tried to turn the heat all the way up to dissipate some of the heat, but I got nothing out of the vents (probably because there was no coolant to circulate).
Does anyone have any ideas here? I'm wanting to sell the car, and have a buyer waiting - but obviously I can't sell it if the engine is having a major issue. As I said, I haven't had the car in a couple of months so I have no idea how it was treated in that time frame, or what if anything was done to it. Also, the fan temp light occasionally kicks on as well.Problem with 88 Cadillac Fleetwood 4.5L?Before replacing the head gaskets be sure to check the intake manifold gaskets. That engine is notorious for bad intake gaskets that give all the symptoms of head gasket failure. Also if it does happen to be the head gaskets that are bad be careful when removing the head bolts because they have a tendency to pull the aluminum block threads out when removing them. You should have a shop perform a cooling system pressure test and a cylinder leak down / compression test to determine what it is that's causing the problem because the more you drive it while overheating the more damage and money your costing yourself. Good luck and hope this helps.Problem with 88 Cadillac Fleetwood 4.5L?22 years old and blowing 2 gallons per min out the tail pipe? You have a blown head gasket , big time. or you have a large 7 cyl water pump. 2 gallons is almost a full system. Pull the plugs. That should indicate which bank needs a gasket, Just better off to do both sides.Problem with 88 Cadillac Fleetwood 4.5L?yeah i think its your head gasket if the smoke on the tail pipe smells like anifreze its your headgasket
Ford Fiesta leaking petrol?
I bought a Ford Fiesta 99 about 4 months ago, after my last car had to be scrapped. I just don't seem to be very lucky, hence I already spent quite a bit in fixing things.. droplinks, suspension joints, and a few other small things which can be quite expensive when added up. The car also overheated and I just changed the thermostat. Now I just realised that it has been also leaking petrol from just next to the right wheel behind. I will get it checked but it sounds as if I'm just gonna spend a lot of money for no reason. I do not really want to get rid of the car as I just bought it and I'm still quite upset about my last car (rip off). Could the leaking be caused by the overheating of the car for some reason and how much you reckon it could cost to fix it? Will it be safe to drive for a few miles? I'm thinking of getting rid of again but I would still need to fix the problem before that. Even then, if everything is fixed, would it be to much to sell it for 900 pound (that's how much I paid).Ford Fiesta leaking petrol?Unfortunately the fiesta is know for problems as well. You will end up putting more money out then you have to for this car. I would sell it and get a better car. as far as your leak goes , I'm guessing and saying you have a leak by the fill tank or neck of the tank. have it checked before it gets worse or possible fire can happen.Ford Fiesta leaking petrol?I'm sorry to be of no help! But... It's a ford (at least they circled the problem!)
It being a cheap car, i wouldn't recomend spending loads on it if it will just carry on getting problems.
I would reccomend just getting rid of it and finding something a bit better, maybe try to get a loan and get a better car that won't keep causing you expensive problems!Ford Fiesta leaking petrol?What your getting fixed is just part and parcel of driving a 10 year old car. You could buy another one and have to do the same again.
Fords are cheap and easy enough to work on and good enough cars. Fiesta is far superior to the Ka.
900 is probably not far off the going rate for a 99 small car. Sellers market where those are concerned.
It being a cheap car, i wouldn't recomend spending loads on it if it will just carry on getting problems.
I would reccomend just getting rid of it and finding something a bit better, maybe try to get a loan and get a better car that won't keep causing you expensive problems!Ford Fiesta leaking petrol?What your getting fixed is just part and parcel of driving a 10 year old car. You could buy another one and have to do the same again.
Fords are cheap and easy enough to work on and good enough cars. Fiesta is far superior to the Ka.
900 is probably not far off the going rate for a 99 small car. Sellers market where those are concerned.
Why didn't replacing the water pump and thermostat on my 1996 Subaru Outback solve the problem?
My car was leaking water because of a leaking water pump. Yesterday I had it replaced with a new water pump and a new thermostat. It ran well afterwards. But since disassembly caused some transmission fluid to leak; I took a drive to the parts store afterwards to pick some up. On my way back to the house from the parts store, less than 录 mile, it got really hot, and quickly got to the limit. Since I had only 2 blocks left I drove it to the house and then shut it off.
I called the mechanic to come back, we started it a few times, the temp was normal at first. But after letting it run for a while, or revving the engine a little bit; it got hot again. Each time, about 3 times, when the indicator was 戮 way up on the gauge, we shut it off.
We let it cool for the next 5 hours, and the mechanic came back to investigate the situation. The car would not start. And based how the water was churning with the radiator cap off, he concluded that the head gaskets needed to be replaced.
I would appreciate if someone can tell me what happened and why this parts replacement did not go off without a hitch.
Right now I am looking at replacing the head gaskets, $54.99 X 2, or replacing all of seals, known as a headset for $283.00.
I am fortunate that he is only charging me a minimal amount for the labor.
What caused the head gaskets to become damaged? Was it the heat or that with the new pump and thermostat there was better water flow and therefore more pressure?
The following links might tell some of the story. I can not tell who is best informed.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en%26amp;q=subaru+outback+overheats+after+changing+water+pump+and+thermostat%26amp;btnG=Google+Search%26amp;aq=f%26amp;oq=
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=6b7bd15c88b83d482202580d70ca4dcf%26amp;postid=158875#post158875
http://answers.edmunds.com/question-98-Subaru-Outback-overheating-Water-radiator-cool-hot-engine-Thermostat-replaced-fans-working-38030.aspx
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081130050024AA0jNKD
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t645025-1997_subaru_outback_legacy_overheating
(the car had only overheated slightly sometimes while the old water pump was in the car and leaking)Why didn't replacing the water pump and thermostat on my 1996 Subaru Outback solve the problem?96-99 2.5 Subaru engines have a HUGE head gasket fail rate, I've seen so many fail to count. Subaru temp gages do not move once the car is warm, if they do, something is wrong. If it overheated slightly before, they were already leaking. You put the water pump in, didn't get all the air out of the system, overheated it, and blew them the rest of the way out. IMHO, you need to have the heads machined, and use only genuine Subaru gaskets. At that age, I'd replace all the seals, timing belt, etc.. Also, since the thermostat is on the bottom of the engine, no water is allowed into the engine until its warmed up, so you have to fill the block with coolant (like thru the upper hose) as well as the radiator before you start up, then add more coolant as it starts to circulate.Why didn't replacing the water pump and thermostat on my 1996 Subaru Outback solve the problem?I would suggest you dump that %26quot;mekanik%26quot; before he gets all your money. You need a RADIATOR SHOP to solve your problem.Don't try flushing the radiator it will not help.
I called the mechanic to come back, we started it a few times, the temp was normal at first. But after letting it run for a while, or revving the engine a little bit; it got hot again. Each time, about 3 times, when the indicator was 戮 way up on the gauge, we shut it off.
We let it cool for the next 5 hours, and the mechanic came back to investigate the situation. The car would not start. And based how the water was churning with the radiator cap off, he concluded that the head gaskets needed to be replaced.
I would appreciate if someone can tell me what happened and why this parts replacement did not go off without a hitch.
Right now I am looking at replacing the head gaskets, $54.99 X 2, or replacing all of seals, known as a headset for $283.00.
I am fortunate that he is only charging me a minimal amount for the labor.
What caused the head gaskets to become damaged? Was it the heat or that with the new pump and thermostat there was better water flow and therefore more pressure?
The following links might tell some of the story. I can not tell who is best informed.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en%26amp;q=subaru+outback+overheats+after+changing+water+pump+and+thermostat%26amp;btnG=Google+Search%26amp;aq=f%26amp;oq=
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=6b7bd15c88b83d482202580d70ca4dcf%26amp;postid=158875#post158875
http://answers.edmunds.com/question-98-Subaru-Outback-overheating-Water-radiator-cool-hot-engine-Thermostat-replaced-fans-working-38030.aspx
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081130050024AA0jNKD
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t645025-1997_subaru_outback_legacy_overheating
(the car had only overheated slightly sometimes while the old water pump was in the car and leaking)Why didn't replacing the water pump and thermostat on my 1996 Subaru Outback solve the problem?96-99 2.5 Subaru engines have a HUGE head gasket fail rate, I've seen so many fail to count. Subaru temp gages do not move once the car is warm, if they do, something is wrong. If it overheated slightly before, they were already leaking. You put the water pump in, didn't get all the air out of the system, overheated it, and blew them the rest of the way out. IMHO, you need to have the heads machined, and use only genuine Subaru gaskets. At that age, I'd replace all the seals, timing belt, etc.. Also, since the thermostat is on the bottom of the engine, no water is allowed into the engine until its warmed up, so you have to fill the block with coolant (like thru the upper hose) as well as the radiator before you start up, then add more coolant as it starts to circulate.Why didn't replacing the water pump and thermostat on my 1996 Subaru Outback solve the problem?I would suggest you dump that %26quot;mekanik%26quot; before he gets all your money. You need a RADIATOR SHOP to solve your problem.Don't try flushing the radiator it will not help.
How can I troubleshoot a Prizm water pump?
I just picked up a 1993 GEO Prizm that overheats. I changed the thermostat with no success. The water pump is not making any noises or leaking, but I suspect that could be the problem. I don't detect any water in the engine oil, so I don't suspect head problems. The top hose to the radiator gets extremely hot, but the bottom hose is cool. In this weird car, the thermostat is connected to the bottom radiator hose at the engine, which is the opposite of what I am used to. How can I figure out if the pump is actually pumping properly?
Another issue, which I don't think is the overheating cause, is the heater core has a leak in it. I put a can of stop-leak in the system to plug that up, but I am not sure yet if it is still leaking or not. Even when the car engine is really hot, no heat comes out of the passenger compartment heater anyway. Both problems existed before the stop-leak was added. I am thinking the passenger compartment heat problem is either a clogged heater core or a non-functioning valve that connects to the heater control cable. Any thoughts on this issue also? I was thinking I should just bypass the heater core by connecting the hoses where they go to and from the heater core at the firewall until I figure out the overheating problem.
Your input is appreciated.How can I troubleshoot a Prizm water pump?As for the water heater, disconnect the heater hoses, make sure the coolant system is full and start the car. If coolant flies out of one of the hoses, the water pump is fine. While the hoses are disconnected, run a garden hose through the heater core and see if there is good flow. If not, the stop leak or something else has plugged up the core. This might be the same problem with the radiator which will cause overheating.tvs comforter insert
Another issue, which I don't think is the overheating cause, is the heater core has a leak in it. I put a can of stop-leak in the system to plug that up, but I am not sure yet if it is still leaking or not. Even when the car engine is really hot, no heat comes out of the passenger compartment heater anyway. Both problems existed before the stop-leak was added. I am thinking the passenger compartment heat problem is either a clogged heater core or a non-functioning valve that connects to the heater control cable. Any thoughts on this issue also? I was thinking I should just bypass the heater core by connecting the hoses where they go to and from the heater core at the firewall until I figure out the overheating problem.
Your input is appreciated.How can I troubleshoot a Prizm water pump?As for the water heater, disconnect the heater hoses, make sure the coolant system is full and start the car. If coolant flies out of one of the hoses, the water pump is fine. While the hoses are disconnected, run a garden hose through the heater core and see if there is good flow. If not, the stop leak or something else has plugged up the core. This might be the same problem with the radiator which will cause overheating.
How can I tell if my transmission has a computer(electrical) or mechanical Problem.?
So My car was having some overheating problems, and I knew that it was the thermostat. So I was going to change my thermostat and flush my cooling system because my car was overheating. And I was going to lift my car by driving it up a ramp, the ones you place in front of your wheels. And half way up the ramp I hear a pop, there was no grind at all, just one pop, not too loud but something popped. My car, 1995 Nissan Maxima automatic, now stays in neutral whether I put it on drive or reverse. Theres not grind at all, but its like it stays in neutral. And also while I was driving my car up the ramp, the car was overheating. Cause I had to get the parts from autozone, and was a bit over on the way back. I heard that the overheating could of caused the system to disengage the transmission. I have drained the oil and took out the transmission cover in the bottom. I checked the shifter cable, and the connection inside, and it seems to be moving normally. So how can I check if its an electrical problem?How can I tell if my transmission has a computer(electrical) or mechanical Problem.?99% probability you've broken something in the trans. Overheating the engine is highly unlikely to cause a trans problem. Driving to and from AutoZone is light duty to the transmission, so the trans oil would likely be between 200 and 300 degrees fahrenheit and quite happy there, even though the engine isn't. If you were pulling a heavy trailer out of Death Valley in August, that would be another story.
The pop implies something broke--a spline, a housing, a shaft, or something along those lines.
I believe Nissan uses Jatco automatics, not a Hydra-Matic, but generally pretty reliable. You might look to see if there's a typical high-mileage failure of the transmission model installed in your car.How can I tell if my transmission has a computer(electrical) or mechanical Problem.?mechanical problem not computer for the transmission only thing in the trans with wires are for neutral safety switch and a lock up solenoid for the torque converter when you over heat the trans you burn the frictions in the trans more than likely you have broken a planetary gear which is common for these transmissions
The pop implies something broke--a spline, a housing, a shaft, or something along those lines.
I believe Nissan uses Jatco automatics, not a Hydra-Matic, but generally pretty reliable. You might look to see if there's a typical high-mileage failure of the transmission model installed in your car.How can I tell if my transmission has a computer(electrical) or mechanical Problem.?mechanical problem not computer for the transmission only thing in the trans with wires are for neutral safety switch and a lock up solenoid for the torque converter when you over heat the trans you burn the frictions in the trans more than likely you have broken a planetary gear which is common for these transmissions
How much is this car worth?
Its a 2002 Monte Carlo..it has 140,000 miles on it its a V6, 2 dr, its Maroon, new thermostat just put in, cd player, power lock/seats, A/c is perfect. Good gas mileage Tires are 2yrs old. Gets oil changes done at JP Chevrolet.
My friend is sell it to me for 5,000.
Do u guys think its too much..let me know what u think. plzHow much is this car worth?way over blue book value.....he's wanting more than it's worth...offer him 2500....3000 tops. If he won't sell to you, watch the horrible luck he will have not getting it sold out in town, until he lowers the price.
My friend is sell it to me for 5,000.
Do u guys think its too much..let me know what u think. plzHow much is this car worth?way over blue book value.....he's wanting more than it's worth...offer him 2500....3000 tops. If he won't sell to you, watch the horrible luck he will have not getting it sold out in town, until he lowers the price.
Help! Why does my car goes dead when its temperature rised?
Recently, my car have some overheating problem...
The water always spill out from the radiator cap each after 10 minutes run.
After the car heats up at 90 centigrade, it get stall.
No matter how hard I try, the car wont start... Unless, if the car cooled down to 80 centigrade...
I changed my clogged radiator, broken thermostat, defective water pump, gaskets and so on... The water didn't spill out again...
Now, my car run at below 85 centigrade... Which is better than before... I also added some coolant in it...
The engine runs so much smoother than before...
Now, here's the problem...
When the car is cold, it will rev up easily, powerful, quiet, easily ignite, and so forth... No problem is found... Just likes normal car...
But, when its reach 80 centigrade, the car runs weakly, easily stall, noisy, hard to crank, barely run and etc...
When the engine is heats up, its always stall each time I release the foot pedal, climbing small hills, turn the steering, turn on the air-cond, shifting to %26quot;D%26quot; gear and much more...
The car runs smoothly, no misfire is detected...
But, whole bunch of mechanics says it's the ignition system. So, I tried replace a new set of spark plugs and new set ignition coils.
Still no luck...
Then, I found out my Catalytic Converter clogged. I replaced it, and it runs better. Yet, the problem is still not solved...
Can someone help me?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
(Sorry for the long questions and my bad English... Lol!!)Help! Why does my car goes dead when its temperature rised?Without knowing what brand car you have, you have two temperature sensors. One goes to your temperature gauge and the other to your power module. When you first start your car your computer module goes into a default, meaning, that all inputs (temperature, vacuum, etc) are preset by the computer. When your engine reaches a certain temperature, it signals the computer to get off default and start monitoring all inputs. You might want to check out if this sensor is not malfunctioning. It should be easy to locate it as most are installed around the front of the engine block in the vicinity of the water pump thermostat housing.Help! Why does my car goes dead when its temperature rised?Hope that took care of the problem.
The water always spill out from the radiator cap each after 10 minutes run.
After the car heats up at 90 centigrade, it get stall.
No matter how hard I try, the car wont start... Unless, if the car cooled down to 80 centigrade...
I changed my clogged radiator, broken thermostat, defective water pump, gaskets and so on... The water didn't spill out again...
Now, my car run at below 85 centigrade... Which is better than before... I also added some coolant in it...
The engine runs so much smoother than before...
Now, here's the problem...
When the car is cold, it will rev up easily, powerful, quiet, easily ignite, and so forth... No problem is found... Just likes normal car...
But, when its reach 80 centigrade, the car runs weakly, easily stall, noisy, hard to crank, barely run and etc...
When the engine is heats up, its always stall each time I release the foot pedal, climbing small hills, turn the steering, turn on the air-cond, shifting to %26quot;D%26quot; gear and much more...
The car runs smoothly, no misfire is detected...
But, whole bunch of mechanics says it's the ignition system. So, I tried replace a new set of spark plugs and new set ignition coils.
Still no luck...
Then, I found out my Catalytic Converter clogged. I replaced it, and it runs better. Yet, the problem is still not solved...
Can someone help me?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
(Sorry for the long questions and my bad English... Lol!!)Help! Why does my car goes dead when its temperature rised?Without knowing what brand car you have, you have two temperature sensors. One goes to your temperature gauge and the other to your power module. When you first start your car your computer module goes into a default, meaning, that all inputs (temperature, vacuum, etc) are preset by the computer. When your engine reaches a certain temperature, it signals the computer to get off default and start monitoring all inputs. You might want to check out if this sensor is not malfunctioning. It should be easy to locate it as most are installed around the front of the engine block in the vicinity of the water pump thermostat housing.Help! Why does my car goes dead when its temperature rised?Hope that took care of the problem.
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What's wrong with my '90 Olds Cutlass?
I can't figure out what's wrong with it. We've flushed the engine block, changed the radiator which was in bad shape, changed the radiator hose, changed the thermostat, changed the water pump. When the car runs about 5 miles, it starts shaking and jerking pretty bad and then stalls out. It starts back up and idles fine then but when you go to throw it into any gear it shuts back down again. I thought it might be the transmission but I'm not sure? It's a 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera with a 4 cylinder engine.70,000 original miles on it and was sitting outside for a while before I bought it. Anyone know what this could be and how I could fix it?What's wrong with my '90 Olds Cutlass?You may have a fuel delivery problem. Change the fuel filter. You didn't say if it was overheating.What's wrong with my '90 Olds Cutlass?Could be hundreds of things, none of which can be properly diagnosed over the internet for free. I would take it to a reputable shop and pay the one hours diag fee so a professional can run numerous tests and isolate the problem(s). Otherwise you will just be switching parts out hoping for an inexpensive fix and not accomplishing anything. Could be anything from a clogged filter, low fuel pressure, bad transmission, tune up, numerous sensors, low compression, bad engine,catalytic converter, loss of ignition, bad computer, electrical problem etc....
Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed & changed oil, flushed & changed coolant.. now what?
About three days ago on my husband's way home from base; his car (01 Ford Escort) began to overheat. It completely overheated, stalled and died on the freeway; he added water and limped home. His heater cut out and no longer blows hot air, we assumed this was due to the radiator issue.
We checked the oil %26amp; the coolant and found that both were very low -- the reservoir was empty for the coolant and our oil was almost 3 quarts low. We did an oil flush and change, replaced the filter, and also did a coolant flush and change, as well as replaced the thermostat (yes, it was installed correctly %26amp; it was the proper temp).
We test drove it tonight; the heater is still blowing cold air and although it isn't overheating, it is running right at 'hot'.
I did some reading and found out we should have bled the lines and that it may have an air bubble (we're bleeding them in the morning, soon as we can see). Husband also told me after the fact that he added coolant to the radiator (filled it) but not the reservoir; but I don't think that would matter (throwing that out there, might be wrong on that).
I also read that it may be a plugged heater core or possibly a fried water pump. I don't know how to find out of a water pump is dead; and we plan on flushing the heater core tomorrow.
I'd like to avoid taking it to a mechanic if at *all* possible. I'm beginning to think it's unavoidable though.
Thanks in advance...Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?Check that your radiator fan is working: start your car, turn on A/C. Fan should turn on immediately when you turn the A/C on, even with the engine cold. If the fan doesn't turn on, check fuses. If fuses are good, check fan connections. If connections good, you may need a new fan.
If the fan works, you probably have a blockage. Reverse flush coolant to see if it is an easy clear, but you may need to replace the radiator, because a blockage is indicative of a lot of scale, corrosion, or buildup of some kind. When reverse flushing, take cap off, flush through radiator connection at bottom and watch what comes out cap opening. A lot of flakes or solids means a lot still in there to block up again. You can flush with harsher chemicals, but in the long run a new radiator might be better. Note for future: change coolant according to manufacturer recommendation -- this helps remove scale and prevent corrosion, and thus prevent blockages.
Lastly, the pump. If nothing else works, it is probably the pump. Check your fanbelts. If they are the problem, you can probably fix. If not, then unless you are an accomplished backyard mechanic, replacing the water pump is better left to a mechanic.Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?I don't believe u need to flush the heater core ,if u flushed the radiator, it' the same water that's in the both of them.The heater hoe ma be hooked up wrong, if the water pump is bad it should be leaking coolant out of the bottom of it.Mot likel a air pocket in the system,u should see a bleeder valve on or near the water pump.Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?From my experience it would be a blocked radiator.
In the first place it over heated on the freeway%26gt;%26gt; symptom of blocked radiator.
If it got so got that it stopped you probably have done major damage. More than likely at least a blown head gasket. Possibly a warped head. This is possibly a major job.
Seek helpCar is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?Hello, I had a 97' Escort and I work on cars. The Escort had origional problems I've not seen elsewhere. For one, the temperature sensor malfunctioned. But what was interesting was the impeller on the water pump was completely eaten away by rust when I got it. Their water pumps aren't that hefty. So you could easily have a bad water pump.
Before you replace that though, check to see if it runs rough or blows smoke and/or steam from the tailpipe. If there is, it could have a blown head gasket.
If you decide to replace the water pump, replace the thermostat and check for blockage in your heater core by pouring water down a disconnected hose. The only other thing that can block it is the flow control valve that basically controls water flow to your heater core. They tend to go bad since they are mostly plastic.Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?make sure first the over flow tank is filled, with the radiator cap off start the car and rev the engine using the throttle cable under the hood and you will see if coolant is circulating as when u rev it the level should fall when warm and want to flow over when you are not reving the engine after a bit.
there is the top radiator hose, when the car is at operating temp this hose should be warm indicating that the thermostat is opening.
if it is not over heating yet no hot air it is likely a blocked heater core, if you can get an adaptor for the heater hose, there is an inlet to the core and an outlet hook up the water hose with the adaptor and try to push water on both sides.
there is a hose connection called a mustard top, so called for the small opening to build higher water pressure that may work in place of an adaptor.
i would drain the radiator and remove the top and bottom hose at one side, it is fine to reuse the freshly filled radiator juice so collect it in a pan.
the heater core hoses go in to the heater core and likely in and out thru the fire wall, spray the pressurized water thru both hoses and sometimes after a while you will get chunks and more water coming out, i did one car and spent close to ten minutes then it all opened up.Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?Have you changed the cap because that will make it over heat also.It has a spring in it just like the thermostat and it will weaken too.law students with cases dvr
We checked the oil %26amp; the coolant and found that both were very low -- the reservoir was empty for the coolant and our oil was almost 3 quarts low. We did an oil flush and change, replaced the filter, and also did a coolant flush and change, as well as replaced the thermostat (yes, it was installed correctly %26amp; it was the proper temp).
We test drove it tonight; the heater is still blowing cold air and although it isn't overheating, it is running right at 'hot'.
I did some reading and found out we should have bled the lines and that it may have an air bubble (we're bleeding them in the morning, soon as we can see). Husband also told me after the fact that he added coolant to the radiator (filled it) but not the reservoir; but I don't think that would matter (throwing that out there, might be wrong on that).
I also read that it may be a plugged heater core or possibly a fried water pump. I don't know how to find out of a water pump is dead; and we plan on flushing the heater core tomorrow.
I'd like to avoid taking it to a mechanic if at *all* possible. I'm beginning to think it's unavoidable though.
Thanks in advance...Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?Check that your radiator fan is working: start your car, turn on A/C. Fan should turn on immediately when you turn the A/C on, even with the engine cold. If the fan doesn't turn on, check fuses. If fuses are good, check fan connections. If connections good, you may need a new fan.
If the fan works, you probably have a blockage. Reverse flush coolant to see if it is an easy clear, but you may need to replace the radiator, because a blockage is indicative of a lot of scale, corrosion, or buildup of some kind. When reverse flushing, take cap off, flush through radiator connection at bottom and watch what comes out cap opening. A lot of flakes or solids means a lot still in there to block up again. You can flush with harsher chemicals, but in the long run a new radiator might be better. Note for future: change coolant according to manufacturer recommendation -- this helps remove scale and prevent corrosion, and thus prevent blockages.
Lastly, the pump. If nothing else works, it is probably the pump. Check your fanbelts. If they are the problem, you can probably fix. If not, then unless you are an accomplished backyard mechanic, replacing the water pump is better left to a mechanic.Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?I don't believe u need to flush the heater core ,if u flushed the radiator, it' the same water that's in the both of them.The heater hoe ma be hooked up wrong, if the water pump is bad it should be leaking coolant out of the bottom of it.Mot likel a air pocket in the system,u should see a bleeder valve on or near the water pump.Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?From my experience it would be a blocked radiator.
In the first place it over heated on the freeway%26gt;%26gt; symptom of blocked radiator.
If it got so got that it stopped you probably have done major damage. More than likely at least a blown head gasket. Possibly a warped head. This is possibly a major job.
Seek helpCar is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?Hello, I had a 97' Escort and I work on cars. The Escort had origional problems I've not seen elsewhere. For one, the temperature sensor malfunctioned. But what was interesting was the impeller on the water pump was completely eaten away by rust when I got it. Their water pumps aren't that hefty. So you could easily have a bad water pump.
Before you replace that though, check to see if it runs rough or blows smoke and/or steam from the tailpipe. If there is, it could have a blown head gasket.
If you decide to replace the water pump, replace the thermostat and check for blockage in your heater core by pouring water down a disconnected hose. The only other thing that can block it is the flow control valve that basically controls water flow to your heater core. They tend to go bad since they are mostly plastic.Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?make sure first the over flow tank is filled, with the radiator cap off start the car and rev the engine using the throttle cable under the hood and you will see if coolant is circulating as when u rev it the level should fall when warm and want to flow over when you are not reving the engine after a bit.
there is the top radiator hose, when the car is at operating temp this hose should be warm indicating that the thermostat is opening.
if it is not over heating yet no hot air it is likely a blocked heater core, if you can get an adaptor for the heater hose, there is an inlet to the core and an outlet hook up the water hose with the adaptor and try to push water on both sides.
there is a hose connection called a mustard top, so called for the small opening to build higher water pressure that may work in place of an adaptor.
i would drain the radiator and remove the top and bottom hose at one side, it is fine to reuse the freshly filled radiator juice so collect it in a pan.
the heater core hoses go in to the heater core and likely in and out thru the fire wall, spray the pressurized water thru both hoses and sometimes after a while you will get chunks and more water coming out, i did one car and spent close to ten minutes then it all opened up.Car is running hot - replaced thermo, flushed %26amp; changed oil, flushed %26amp; changed coolant.. now what?Have you changed the cap because that will make it over heat also.It has a spring in it just like the thermostat and it will weaken too.
Why is my bmw e36 316 top hose building up lots of pressure?
i recently change my top thermostat housing and the main thermostat . i then bleed the system and im getting heat through so i know there is not an air block, the Temperature stays perfectly in the middle and the car has not overheated, but the top hose seems to build with quite a bit of pressure, and i have no idea how to fix that?Why is my bmw e36 316 top hose building up lots of pressure?All details are on their home page
Why my car lasts a lot to warm up the engine and in highway speed temperature drops?
i have a Civic 1997, since i changed a non working radiator with a new one (i dont know how it works, they just told that they put one that works faster) the temperature drops in highways and never goes to the middle again until i stop. I asked if it was the thermostat but he said that its because the new radiator that has more capacity.. what do you think guys?.. Note: In the city and standing still it works fine.Why my car lasts a lot to warm up the engine and in highway speed temperature drops?sounds like the thermostat, a bigger radiator does cool better but the thermostat should still cut off coolant flow so it will get to operating temperature regardless of how big the radiator is, if it is the electric fan switch than highway use would not matter because the air is already flowing accross the radiator. thermostats are cheap and easy to replace, i would just try one. another alternative is just to place something accross a portion of the radiator, large trucks usually do this in very cold weather, just make sure it doesnt overheat if you cover too much of it.Why my car lasts a lot to warm up the engine and in highway speed temperature drops?Radiator capacity has nothing to do with it. Its the function of a thermostat. When the car is warming up and any time the engine temperature drops below the thermostat setting the thermostat is closed and the coolant is circulating around the engine bypassing the radiator, this this is how the engine temperature is controlled.Why my car lasts a lot to warm up the engine and in highway speed temperature drops?this is because of the electric thermostat, not the mechanical one. the electric thermostat is controlled by the ECU. my honda does the same thing, but I've been too lazy to fix it.
About how long will my car take to warm up with No Thermostat vs With a Thermostat?
1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais 2.5L %26quot;Iron Duke%26quot; Tech4... Thermostat removed to buy it %26quot;one more day%26quot; until head Changed %26quot;Tomorrow.%26quot; .. That also means that the Water/Coolant/Antifreeze is %26quot;Constantly Circulating%26quot; because there is no Thermostat opening, so it is ALWAYS going through the Radiator once it heats up enough to go out of the Engine Block and through that Thermostat housing to the Radiator, into which it flows, yes?
Also, im wonderign how long it will take With.. probably do the Chemical Flush today, the coolant gets burned fof due to blown head Gasket so i add water then Antifreeze at end of day, i wonder what would happen if Ice froze up in the Radiator, hasnt happened yet..
Thank You
(Water runs pretty clear, only has the -slight- cloudy color of water due to the Head Gasket leak, but it runs -clear-... Chemical Flush today, wonder if that will improve it even more..)About how long will my car take to warm up with No Thermostat vs With a Thermostat?If you're talking about the normal operating temperature of the engine, it will be all over the chart without a thermostat depending on many factors - it might even over heat under some conditions because the constant flow won't allow the coolant to linger in the radiator long enough to cool properly.
%26quot;One more day%26quot; shouldn't bother it at all.
And you've got it right.....from the engine block through the thermostat to the radiator and back into the block.About how long will my car take to warm up with No Thermostat vs With a Thermostat?with it being cold somewhat might never get warm
might take a few hours of hard driving
just so you know thermostat controls how the motor cool the coolant
by holding it in radiator to be cooled while whats in motor cooling motor
most of time what one add to flush is cheap and doesnt work that great
a radiator shop can boil it out and be like new again and you car needs a thermostat so motor can cool off
and being cold out side only wil help it not over heatAbout how long will my car take to warm up with No Thermostat vs With a Thermostat?Depends on several factors such as the outside temperature, whether the engine is under load (being driven) or just idling, etc.
But it is safe to say that it will take a lot longer.
By the way...if it's just water in there now, keep it from freezing. Water expands when frozen so it is a good way to rupture the radiator.
Also, im wonderign how long it will take With.. probably do the Chemical Flush today, the coolant gets burned fof due to blown head Gasket so i add water then Antifreeze at end of day, i wonder what would happen if Ice froze up in the Radiator, hasnt happened yet..
Thank You
(Water runs pretty clear, only has the -slight- cloudy color of water due to the Head Gasket leak, but it runs -clear-... Chemical Flush today, wonder if that will improve it even more..)About how long will my car take to warm up with No Thermostat vs With a Thermostat?If you're talking about the normal operating temperature of the engine, it will be all over the chart without a thermostat depending on many factors - it might even over heat under some conditions because the constant flow won't allow the coolant to linger in the radiator long enough to cool properly.
%26quot;One more day%26quot; shouldn't bother it at all.
And you've got it right.....from the engine block through the thermostat to the radiator and back into the block.About how long will my car take to warm up with No Thermostat vs With a Thermostat?with it being cold somewhat might never get warm
might take a few hours of hard driving
just so you know thermostat controls how the motor cool the coolant
by holding it in radiator to be cooled while whats in motor cooling motor
most of time what one add to flush is cheap and doesnt work that great
a radiator shop can boil it out and be like new again and you car needs a thermostat so motor can cool off
and being cold out side only wil help it not over heatAbout how long will my car take to warm up with No Thermostat vs With a Thermostat?Depends on several factors such as the outside temperature, whether the engine is under load (being driven) or just idling, etc.
But it is safe to say that it will take a lot longer.
By the way...if it's just water in there now, keep it from freezing. Water expands when frozen so it is a good way to rupture the radiator.
Car Heating Up?
I have a 2002 Mazda millenia 2.5
I'm having problems with it overheating in certain circumstances, not all the time but it happens once in a while when is very hot ouside in stop and go traffic. I changed the thermostat, put plenty of 50-50 anti-freeze but that didn't fix the problem. Yesterday when the temperature needle was almost at the top I popped the hood while the engine still running with the AC turned off, and noticed the the AC fan was on and the other fan wasn't spinnig eventhough the engine was overheating. Are they suppose to kick in at the same time? Also are they both suppose to kick in when i turn the AC or just one fan.
If I have a fan problem how do i find out exactly what it is. I heard it could be something called a relay (where do I find that), I heard that it could be cooling sensor, or the fan. HOW DO I RULE EACH ONE OF THEM OUT? I don't want to spend a fortune taking it to the dealer or buying unnesary replacements.Car Heating Up?Nnormally your fans turn on in 2 steps without a/c on. The sensor reads the temp and sends it to the comp roughly primary fan 200* secondary 220* . to rule out fan, run wires straight to the fan from the battery . To rule out relay ,swap relays. To rule out sensor .Take resistance reading as it get`s hotter and see if it changes and in specsCar Heating Up?Yes it is either the fan relay or temperature sensor. It is hard to rule one of either out, just change both, they shouldn't be too expensive, like $100 for both or less.Car Heating Up?I had the exact same problem just last week. I have a 99 Corolla. Last week I noticed that my engine was overheating, so I took my car to a shop and had them take a look. They told me my radiator and antifreeze was OK, but one of my fans wasn't working, that's why my engine was overheating.
So, go get the fan fix before your engine blow up!! It might cost you one or two hundred dollars.
Good luckCar Heating Up?I'd check out the fan and the temperature sensor.Car Heating Up?okay start your car with the hood open.
watch the guage until it gets hot then the cooling fan on the rad should turn on.
if it dosn't theres a problem with the sencer,the wire going to the fan or the fan itself.
hope that helps
and good luckCar Heating Up?check the fins of the radiator make sure they are free of debris and bugs and such, clean if neccesary. all that garbage in the fins can cause overheating, actually I think one fan running would be sufficient to cool the water.
I'm having problems with it overheating in certain circumstances, not all the time but it happens once in a while when is very hot ouside in stop and go traffic. I changed the thermostat, put plenty of 50-50 anti-freeze but that didn't fix the problem. Yesterday when the temperature needle was almost at the top I popped the hood while the engine still running with the AC turned off, and noticed the the AC fan was on and the other fan wasn't spinnig eventhough the engine was overheating. Are they suppose to kick in at the same time? Also are they both suppose to kick in when i turn the AC or just one fan.
If I have a fan problem how do i find out exactly what it is. I heard it could be something called a relay (where do I find that), I heard that it could be cooling sensor, or the fan. HOW DO I RULE EACH ONE OF THEM OUT? I don't want to spend a fortune taking it to the dealer or buying unnesary replacements.Car Heating Up?Nnormally your fans turn on in 2 steps without a/c on. The sensor reads the temp and sends it to the comp roughly primary fan 200* secondary 220* . to rule out fan, run wires straight to the fan from the battery . To rule out relay ,swap relays. To rule out sensor .Take resistance reading as it get`s hotter and see if it changes and in specsCar Heating Up?Yes it is either the fan relay or temperature sensor. It is hard to rule one of either out, just change both, they shouldn't be too expensive, like $100 for both or less.Car Heating Up?I had the exact same problem just last week. I have a 99 Corolla. Last week I noticed that my engine was overheating, so I took my car to a shop and had them take a look. They told me my radiator and antifreeze was OK, but one of my fans wasn't working, that's why my engine was overheating.
So, go get the fan fix before your engine blow up!! It might cost you one or two hundred dollars.
Good luckCar Heating Up?I'd check out the fan and the temperature sensor.Car Heating Up?okay start your car with the hood open.
watch the guage until it gets hot then the cooling fan on the rad should turn on.
if it dosn't theres a problem with the sencer,the wire going to the fan or the fan itself.
hope that helps
and good luckCar Heating Up?check the fins of the radiator make sure they are free of debris and bugs and such, clean if neccesary. all that garbage in the fins can cause overheating, actually I think one fan running would be sufficient to cool the water.
Why in the crap is my car STILL overheating?? Please help!?
I posted on here a month ago or so about my car, a 1996 Sunfire. One day it just started overheating for no apparent reason.
My dad replaced the thermostat, the water pump, and ran a hose through the radiator, none of which worked. Though, after that, the overheating seemed to occur at a much slower rate than before. The gauge would just very slowly climb towards the red.
Finally, he decided to just replace the head, since it had been leaking anyway. He took it out, and it did have a few cracks in it, and he figured that must be the problem. He just finished it today, and the car is STILL very slowly overheating when you run it.
The car runs really well other than this, and doesn't really have any other problems. The new head he got for it does not have any cracks, and the temperature gauge is not broken- the engine is getting hot. The fan is working properly.
He is now going out the buy some hose to bypass the heater core and see if it's clogged up, because at one point when he was changing the thermostat and all of the other things, the heater inexplicably stopped working. Without doing anything to it though, it started working again. It had never had any issues. Could the heater core be the problem?? If so, what would that entail as far as fixing it?
Another thing is that he said there was some kind of gunky slime in the coolant reservoir, and he wasn't sure what it was. Does that indicate a possible problem?
Does anyone know what the problem could be and how he could fix it?? Any ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!Why in the crap is my car STILL overheating?? Please help!?After replacing the thermostat, water pump, running a hose through the radiator, and replacing the head your dad was probably so frazzled that he forgot to add the coolant.
Fill the reservoir with fresh coolant and then carefully drive your Sunbird a couple hundred miles to clean everything out and you'll be fine. Take some extra coolant with you and consistently check the temperature gage on your driving adventure. You are good for another million miles.Why in the crap is my car STILL overheating?? Please help!?This sounds like a possible plugged radiator. Get the car warmed up to normal temperature. Run your hand or temperature gun over all of the radiator. It should be uniform in temperature with no cold spots. Most radiator shops can also flow test the radiator if you remove it and take it to them.Why in the crap is my car STILL overheating?? Please help!?I am no mechanic, but does the car have a cooling fan? It may be that the car slowly gets warm and the cooling fan isn't starting. This could happen when you idle for any length of time which would cause the car to overheat.Why in the crap is my car STILL overheating?? Please help!?sounds like a crack in the top of one of the pistons, if the head had cracks in it the pistons will also be more than likely cracked or have a broken ring ( that would let oil get into the cooling system ) you can bypass the heater core easy without getting a different hose, just cut and splice together with a piece of steel or plastik hose, to remove the heater core you will have to take the dash apart on the passenger side, depending on what kind of vehicle it is some have covers that have 4-6 screws and the cover comes off, disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core ( under the hood ) flush the cooling system completely and add a chemical called water wetter this will lower the temp also, just add it to your antifreeze ,Why in the crap is my car STILL overheating?? Please help!?Your car is 13 years old -- go to Autozone and buy a new radiator! This will likely solve your overheating woes. GM introduced their 'yellow' coolant/antifreeze in the '90's and this stuff is pure garbage when it finally breaks down. It turns to brown sludge and goops up the entire cooling system. I have discussed this issue with several radiator specialists and they all agree -- given the chance they would flush out the high-mileage yellow coolant and replace it with the more 'conventional' green fluid if the car is out of warranty. Your car will suffer NO ill effects what so ever and you won't have the sludging issues anymore.Why in the crap is my car STILL overheating?? Please help!?check your cooling fans and make sure your thermostat is opening up.when car is warm squeeze top hose if solid then it is not opening.cooling fans or fan in front of radiator and you also might have to open the bleeder on the side of the engine to let the air out.Why in the crap is my car STILL overheating?? Please help!?I think you have a partially plugged radiator and it's letting it slowly over heat. Running a hose through it to flush it out don't always work.Why in the crap is my car STILL overheating?? Please help!?The heater core will not cause an overheat problem, if anything the heater core (if flowing properly) will help to cool the engine.
Sounds like you need a cooling system flush and new radiator.bombay computer advice web development
My dad replaced the thermostat, the water pump, and ran a hose through the radiator, none of which worked. Though, after that, the overheating seemed to occur at a much slower rate than before. The gauge would just very slowly climb towards the red.
Finally, he decided to just replace the head, since it had been leaking anyway. He took it out, and it did have a few cracks in it, and he figured that must be the problem. He just finished it today, and the car is STILL very slowly overheating when you run it.
The car runs really well other than this, and doesn't really have any other problems. The new head he got for it does not have any cracks, and the temperature gauge is not broken- the engine is getting hot. The fan is working properly.
He is now going out the buy some hose to bypass the heater core and see if it's clogged up, because at one point when he was changing the thermostat and all of the other things, the heater inexplicably stopped working. Without doing anything to it though, it started working again. It had never had any issues. Could the heater core be the problem?? If so, what would that entail as far as fixing it?
Another thing is that he said there was some kind of gunky slime in the coolant reservoir, and he wasn't sure what it was. Does that indicate a possible problem?
Does anyone know what the problem could be and how he could fix it?? Any ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!Why in the crap is my car STILL overheating?? Please help!?After replacing the thermostat, water pump, running a hose through the radiator, and replacing the head your dad was probably so frazzled that he forgot to add the coolant.
Fill the reservoir with fresh coolant and then carefully drive your Sunbird a couple hundred miles to clean everything out and you'll be fine. Take some extra coolant with you and consistently check the temperature gage on your driving adventure. You are good for another million miles.Why in the crap is my car STILL overheating?? Please help!?This sounds like a possible plugged radiator. Get the car warmed up to normal temperature. Run your hand or temperature gun over all of the radiator. It should be uniform in temperature with no cold spots. Most radiator shops can also flow test the radiator if you remove it and take it to them.Why in the crap is my car STILL overheating?? Please help!?I am no mechanic, but does the car have a cooling fan? It may be that the car slowly gets warm and the cooling fan isn't starting. This could happen when you idle for any length of time which would cause the car to overheat.Why in the crap is my car STILL overheating?? Please help!?sounds like a crack in the top of one of the pistons, if the head had cracks in it the pistons will also be more than likely cracked or have a broken ring ( that would let oil get into the cooling system ) you can bypass the heater core easy without getting a different hose, just cut and splice together with a piece of steel or plastik hose, to remove the heater core you will have to take the dash apart on the passenger side, depending on what kind of vehicle it is some have covers that have 4-6 screws and the cover comes off, disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core ( under the hood ) flush the cooling system completely and add a chemical called water wetter this will lower the temp also, just add it to your antifreeze ,Why in the crap is my car STILL overheating?? Please help!?Your car is 13 years old -- go to Autozone and buy a new radiator! This will likely solve your overheating woes. GM introduced their 'yellow' coolant/antifreeze in the '90's and this stuff is pure garbage when it finally breaks down. It turns to brown sludge and goops up the entire cooling system. I have discussed this issue with several radiator specialists and they all agree -- given the chance they would flush out the high-mileage yellow coolant and replace it with the more 'conventional' green fluid if the car is out of warranty. Your car will suffer NO ill effects what so ever and you won't have the sludging issues anymore.Why in the crap is my car STILL overheating?? Please help!?check your cooling fans and make sure your thermostat is opening up.when car is warm squeeze top hose if solid then it is not opening.cooling fans or fan in front of radiator and you also might have to open the bleeder on the side of the engine to let the air out.Why in the crap is my car STILL overheating?? Please help!?I think you have a partially plugged radiator and it's letting it slowly over heat. Running a hose through it to flush it out don't always work.Why in the crap is my car STILL overheating?? Please help!?The heater core will not cause an overheat problem, if anything the heater core (if flowing properly) will help to cool the engine.
Sounds like you need a cooling system flush and new radiator.
My car keeps blowing white smoke and over heating. Why?
I am thinking it's a cracked block but not sure. It's a 1994 Honda Civic LX. I've put a bottle of that cracked head or engine block sealer in and the car runs fine for 3 weeks then the car starts to shake and over heat again. The white smoke comes back also. I also noticed oil in 2 of my spark plug cylinders. I've changed the Thermostat and just changed the timing belt and water pump. What could this mean? Right now it's shaking again and I'm sure when I buy the seal it will stop again for 3 weeks but I need to know how to keep my car running without this problem. HELP!! Thanks!!My car keeps blowing white smoke and over heating. Why?The oil in the spark plug tubes is an unrelated problem - the tube seals (part of the valve cover gasket kit) are not sealing. They may need Permatex to seal them.
The main problem is most likely to be a failed head gasket, with a warped head caused by an episode of serious overheating. The sealant won't hold if the head is significantly warped, so your experience is a good indicator of a warped head. The cure is to remove the head, have it checked for flatness and cracks, and milled if it is warped but not cracked. A new head gasket, lots of hours and cursing, and you are back in business.My car keeps blowing white smoke and over heating. Why?It's blowing white smoke because water is leaking past the head gasket and burning in the engine.The heads are more than likely warped, or the gasket could just be leaking. Either way, if you cant fix it yourself it's going to cost you about a grand to have it fixed in a garage. You have to ask yourself. Is a '94 Civic worth that much money? I'd be looking for a new car.My car keeps blowing white smoke and over heating. Why?oil on the plugs is not good , you will need a full engine overhaul not worth it buy a replacement carMy car keeps blowing white smoke and over heating. Why?blown head gasket
crack head maybe
crack block not likey
but do know you cant drive it any more an dneed a shop to repair it or walkMy car keeps blowing white smoke and over heating. Why?Blown headgasket is most likley the cause. Try the headgasket sealer one more time it may or may not fix it.My car keeps blowing white smoke and over heating. Why?the first thing in your mind is a head gasket but you won,t know if the head or block is hurt until you pull the head.My car keeps blowing white smoke and over heating. Why?it's time for a new car.
The main problem is most likely to be a failed head gasket, with a warped head caused by an episode of serious overheating. The sealant won't hold if the head is significantly warped, so your experience is a good indicator of a warped head. The cure is to remove the head, have it checked for flatness and cracks, and milled if it is warped but not cracked. A new head gasket, lots of hours and cursing, and you are back in business.My car keeps blowing white smoke and over heating. Why?It's blowing white smoke because water is leaking past the head gasket and burning in the engine.The heads are more than likely warped, or the gasket could just be leaking. Either way, if you cant fix it yourself it's going to cost you about a grand to have it fixed in a garage. You have to ask yourself. Is a '94 Civic worth that much money? I'd be looking for a new car.My car keeps blowing white smoke and over heating. Why?oil on the plugs is not good , you will need a full engine overhaul not worth it buy a replacement carMy car keeps blowing white smoke and over heating. Why?blown head gasket
crack head maybe
crack block not likey
but do know you cant drive it any more an dneed a shop to repair it or walkMy car keeps blowing white smoke and over heating. Why?Blown headgasket is most likley the cause. Try the headgasket sealer one more time it may or may not fix it.My car keeps blowing white smoke and over heating. Why?the first thing in your mind is a head gasket but you won,t know if the head or block is hurt until you pull the head.My car keeps blowing white smoke and over heating. Why?it's time for a new car.
Car problems please help!?
Ok where do i begin. My car has been overheating, today i drove it a good 30 miles before it started to overheat. Ive checked the radiator, changed the thermostat, checked all the hoses, and everything seems fine. so i took it to pep boys and they performed a %26quot;blop%26quot; test (not sure what the test is really called). any way they told me that if the liquid changes color that it means that coolant and oil are mixed together and that it probably means that i have a blown gasket. and sure enough when they performed that test the liquid changed color and they told me that there is no pressure. well i drove it home and no overheating. my questions is this,
1.)How does coolant mixing with oil damage the engine?
2.)The car performs well, except for the overheating. What can i expect in the future?
3.)I know this problem is expensive to fix but is there an alternative to changing the engine? Anything Please!!!!!!!!!!!
4.) Can this problem be fixed at home? (Obviously with someone that has experience with fixing cars)
Thanks to anyone that helps answer my question.Car problems please help!?1.) The engine can not compress water. Oil and water don't mix. Water will breakdown oil thus busted motor
2.) Excessive overheating will ruin you engine
3.) If head gasket is blown, just change it
4.) Yes can be done at home. Get a repair manual at autozoneCar problems please help!?WHAT TYPE OF ENGINE? IF ITS A HEAD GASKET IT CAN BE REPLACED AT HOME ,BUT YOU STILL MIGHT HAVE A CRACKED BLOCK OR HEAD. A HEAT DAMAGED ENGINE CAN BE VERY COSTLY IN MANY AREAS. GOOD LUCKCar problems please help!?well it could be a blown head gasket or if you drove it very long over heating it can warp the heads or crack the block but oil and coolant should not mix because not because its dangerous but because something isn't right if water is getting into your oil that means your engine is not getting enough lubricant if your engine isn't getting enough lubricant then your going to start busting your connection rods then your crank will definitly need to be replaced if it gets a flat spot and then talk about some money problems so save your trouble replace the head gasket and while you have the heads off have them checked to make sure they are not warped you didn't mention what kind of car you have so i couldn't tell you the difficulty of doing it
1.)How does coolant mixing with oil damage the engine?
2.)The car performs well, except for the overheating. What can i expect in the future?
3.)I know this problem is expensive to fix but is there an alternative to changing the engine? Anything Please!!!!!!!!!!!
4.) Can this problem be fixed at home? (Obviously with someone that has experience with fixing cars)
Thanks to anyone that helps answer my question.Car problems please help!?1.) The engine can not compress water. Oil and water don't mix. Water will breakdown oil thus busted motor
2.) Excessive overheating will ruin you engine
3.) If head gasket is blown, just change it
4.) Yes can be done at home. Get a repair manual at autozoneCar problems please help!?WHAT TYPE OF ENGINE? IF ITS A HEAD GASKET IT CAN BE REPLACED AT HOME ,BUT YOU STILL MIGHT HAVE A CRACKED BLOCK OR HEAD. A HEAT DAMAGED ENGINE CAN BE VERY COSTLY IN MANY AREAS. GOOD LUCKCar problems please help!?well it could be a blown head gasket or if you drove it very long over heating it can warp the heads or crack the block but oil and coolant should not mix because not because its dangerous but because something isn't right if water is getting into your oil that means your engine is not getting enough lubricant if your engine isn't getting enough lubricant then your going to start busting your connection rods then your crank will definitly need to be replaced if it gets a flat spot and then talk about some money problems so save your trouble replace the head gasket and while you have the heads off have them checked to make sure they are not warped you didn't mention what kind of car you have so i couldn't tell you the difficulty of doing it
Bmw overheating problem overheats very quick even with thermostat removed?
From what i have read it could be the head gasket but im not entirely sure as there are not many if any of the tell tale signs ie. there is only a little smoke from the exhaust (and only when engine first starts), no white gunky stuff under oil cap and the coolant is the right colour. I have changed the thermostat, and have taken it oyt completely now and also changed the radiator and oil. The only thing left from what i can gather is the water pump but have absolutely no idea where i can find this on the car or if i should even attempt it being a total novice.I had the car garage take the ecu from my girlfriends car and put it in mine before this started happening but im not sure if that could be the problem.Sometimes it seems to work but lately its always happening so i is possible air pocket but i dont know how to fix it If anyone could please help me as to what else i could try and where i can find the water pump i would be very gratefull.
cheers
danBmw overheating problem overheats very quick even with thermostat removed?Water pumps almost never fail in that way for one thing. The first thing to check is whether or not the fan is working. If the fan is mechanical (attached to the engine) it should turn slowly when the engine is cold and fast when it gets hot. If electrical fan, turn A/C on, if fan turns on then you know the fan works, if it doesnt, you have an inoperative fan. Secondly, does the gauge just read hot or is the engine actually overheating? You need a good mechanic as this is the most common cause of blown engines. And yes the new ECU could have caused this problem, in fact that is the most likely cause. (wiring not hooked up right)Bmw overheating problem overheats very quick even with thermostat removed?Don't know where the water pump on a BMW is, but it will have a pulley and a belt attatched to it. Check and see if any coolant is leaking around it, it should have a %26quot;weep%26quot; hole, also check to see if the pulley seems stable.
To bleed the system for air, start the car, take off the radiator cap, and watch for circulation, if your pump is working, the air will eventualy rise to the top, and you can add more coolant.
If there is no circulation, then the pump is probably bad.
cheers
danBmw overheating problem overheats very quick even with thermostat removed?Water pumps almost never fail in that way for one thing. The first thing to check is whether or not the fan is working. If the fan is mechanical (attached to the engine) it should turn slowly when the engine is cold and fast when it gets hot. If electrical fan, turn A/C on, if fan turns on then you know the fan works, if it doesnt, you have an inoperative fan. Secondly, does the gauge just read hot or is the engine actually overheating? You need a good mechanic as this is the most common cause of blown engines. And yes the new ECU could have caused this problem, in fact that is the most likely cause. (wiring not hooked up right)Bmw overheating problem overheats very quick even with thermostat removed?Don't know where the water pump on a BMW is, but it will have a pulley and a belt attatched to it. Check and see if any coolant is leaking around it, it should have a %26quot;weep%26quot; hole, also check to see if the pulley seems stable.
To bleed the system for air, start the car, take off the radiator cap, and watch for circulation, if your pump is working, the air will eventualy rise to the top, and you can add more coolant.
If there is no circulation, then the pump is probably bad.
How do I replace the power steering main pressure hose in a 1990 Honda Accord?
What tools will I need to replace the main powersteering pressure hose and what are the steps to replace it? I am not a mechanic but I am familiar with changing oil for my car, replacing radiator fan, replacing thermostat, replacing fuel filter, replacing air filter, etc. With my level of expertise, how much more difficult is it to replace the main pressure hose for the powersteering? Do I have to drain the fluid first? Should I wrap up the alternator to avoid spills into it? etc.How do I replace the power steering main pressure hose in a 1990 Honda Accord?the only special tools you'll need is a 14mm flare nut wrench.
start by draining the fluid. You do this by removing the return hose from the power steering reservoir (the hose that does not go to the power steering pump) and place the end into a suitable container such as an old 2 litre soda bottle.
have someone hold the bottle out of the way from the engine drive belts fo that it is at or below the level of the power steering reservir. Remove the cap from the power steering reservoir.
Then start the engine and slowly turn the steering wheel all the way to one side and hold it there for the count of 5. Then slowly turn it fully to the other side and hold it. Do this three or four times and the fluid will have been pumped out of the system. Stop as soon as the fluid flow becomes slight or stops so that you don't damage the pump.
Then you can remove the pressure line from the back of the power steering pump. it has a special banjo fitting but no special tool is required to remove the nut. I think its probably a 10 mm but I'm not sure.
with the hose removed from the pump end, raise the front of the car up. you'll have to get under the car and locate the steering gear. It will be attached to the rear engine bulkhead and have four steel lines going into the control valve. The pressure line has a 14 mm nut. the return line has a 17mm nut. the other two lines are for the power steering cooler. If the cooler lines are the same as the pressure line you'll have to figure out which line is the pressure line by following the hose back from the pump.
use the flare nut wrench so that you don't damage the fitting. Once you break it loose you can usually remove the fitting by hand and then remove the hose. I recommend wearing safety glasses because there may be residual fluid that comes out and you don't want to get that in your eyes.
replace the hose by routing the hose between the pump and the steering gear, then threading in the fitting to the steering rack first then tightening the fitting with the flare nut wrench. then connect the steering hose to the pump end using the special bolt that you removed earlier.
With the hose in place, reconnect the return hose to the reservoir, fill the reservoir with fluid and bleed the air out of the system by starting the engine and following the same procedure you used to remove the fluid from the system at the start. top off the fluid level to the full mark, and check for leaks. If no leaks, then your done.
As long as you have the right tools and some patience you should be able to do this.
hope that answers your questions
start by draining the fluid. You do this by removing the return hose from the power steering reservoir (the hose that does not go to the power steering pump) and place the end into a suitable container such as an old 2 litre soda bottle.
have someone hold the bottle out of the way from the engine drive belts fo that it is at or below the level of the power steering reservir. Remove the cap from the power steering reservoir.
Then start the engine and slowly turn the steering wheel all the way to one side and hold it there for the count of 5. Then slowly turn it fully to the other side and hold it. Do this three or four times and the fluid will have been pumped out of the system. Stop as soon as the fluid flow becomes slight or stops so that you don't damage the pump.
Then you can remove the pressure line from the back of the power steering pump. it has a special banjo fitting but no special tool is required to remove the nut. I think its probably a 10 mm but I'm not sure.
with the hose removed from the pump end, raise the front of the car up. you'll have to get under the car and locate the steering gear. It will be attached to the rear engine bulkhead and have four steel lines going into the control valve. The pressure line has a 14 mm nut. the return line has a 17mm nut. the other two lines are for the power steering cooler. If the cooler lines are the same as the pressure line you'll have to figure out which line is the pressure line by following the hose back from the pump.
use the flare nut wrench so that you don't damage the fitting. Once you break it loose you can usually remove the fitting by hand and then remove the hose. I recommend wearing safety glasses because there may be residual fluid that comes out and you don't want to get that in your eyes.
replace the hose by routing the hose between the pump and the steering gear, then threading in the fitting to the steering rack first then tightening the fitting with the flare nut wrench. then connect the steering hose to the pump end using the special bolt that you removed earlier.
With the hose in place, reconnect the return hose to the reservoir, fill the reservoir with fluid and bleed the air out of the system by starting the engine and following the same procedure you used to remove the fluid from the system at the start. top off the fluid level to the full mark, and check for leaks. If no leaks, then your done.
As long as you have the right tools and some patience you should be able to do this.
hope that answers your questions
How do you change a water pump in a 1998 Cadillac Deville?
My car is overheating sometimes and I can hear clicking when it runs, I know it might be the thermostat or radiator, but I think its the water pump. I have some experience working on cars, so I would like to do the work myself. I need to know where it is located, preferably step by step instructions. I know that the water pump is not leaking. What could it be and should i do?How do you change a water pump in a 1998 Cadillac Deville?Casey if your not sure its time to see the dealer or one of your local auto repair shops.Replacing parts that might not be the problem is going to cost more.Mechanics will test your cooling system and find what is the cause of your overheating and the noise your hearing.If you decide to replace your water pump you can get free removal and installation info on www.autozone.com Best of luck.How to clean a comforter without a washer silk comforter
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